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|  | |  | | | Rema Patches F1-P 25mm 100/Box | | | | | SKU:
B071c | | In Stock | | Availability:
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| | Product Details | | Package Length: | 4.6 inches | | Package Width: | 1.4 inches | | Package Height: | 1.2 inches | | Package Weight: | 0.1 pounds | | Average Customer Rating: |  based on 4 reviews |
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| | Customer Reviews | Average Customer Review: ( 4 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
13 of 13 found the following review helpful:
 Rema patches 25mm Apr 10, 2008
By Jerry D.
"Azguy"
We have about 6 bikes in our household and we live in Arizona, so flats can be a common occurrence. We have beefed up to tire liners, thicker tubes and the slime products, but occasionally we do get a thorn or other object that makes its way through. The Rema brand patches are the best out there in my opinion. They stick very well and I just use the butt of the screwdriver to mash them down on the tube on a flat surface. They also work very well if a hole is next to an already patched hole. Just center it and put it on there over the hole and it sticks to the patch as well as surrounding tube. I've gone through about a 1/4 of my 100-ct box and have not had a patch not hold. I also like the way they are designed. They are round but with a square plastic area to hold onto when you separate the back from the patch. This allows the patch surface to remain free of contaminants. Just hold on to the clear plastic as you place it on the tube, and then LEAVE IT THERE. Attempting to remove the clear plastic might mess up the patch; at least I know it was hard to remove and after having done it once, I simply leave it on there. It's not going to hurt anything.
Best on the market for over forty years! Jan 26, 2012
By Bruce Braley
I have used Rema patches since 1970 and have found nothing that comes close in more than forty years. The tapered edges keep the patched tube performing as similar to a new one as is possible and enable the overlapping mentioned by another reviewer. I sometimes wind up using tubes until they have more than ten patches. This is how reliable properly applied Rema patches are. There is no reason to throw patched tubes away unless the valve fails, the tube rots from age, or it blows out through a failed tire sidewall resulting in a hole too large for a patch.
Although due to the chemicals involved I do my patching outdoors, the key is not to patch tubes out on the road. Instead, carry a couple of spare tubes on each ride. This way, a flat need not detain you for more than five minutes even if you use a pump rather than a CO2 inflator.
I, like another reviewer, am an Arizonan, and can count on less than one hand the number of times two tubes were not adequate for any road ride. In those cases, half the time I was not careful enough to ensure that all holes had been patched before adding the tube to my seat bag. I have shared my tubes with other cyclists who did not carry enough probably ten times for each time I've had to borrow one, myself.
To ensure that your patches are fully reliable, buy a quart of liquid buffer. It will last you your entire life if you keep the cap on tight. Don't sand the tube--just squirt a bit of liquid buffer onto a layer of clean rag over your finger and rub the tube for a few seconds with the wet surface ensuring that you buff beyond the area to be covered by the patch. It's probably a good idea to wear a rubber glove under the rag.
Contrary to what others have said about needing a particular patching fluid, I've had no problems with whatever generic patching cement is available on the same shelf as the liquid buffer at any auto supply store. I buy this in at least a four-ounce (but no more than eight-ounce) container with brush integrated in the cap. The little tubes of cement meant to be carried with you on the bike tend to dry out too easily and do not come with an applicator brush. Wipe both sides of the brush on the inner rim of the can to avoid too much cement, then brush the remaining cement onto the tube, again ensuring to wet an area beyond the area to be covered by the patch. Use enough to leave a shiny surface on the tube. Immediately replace the cap after brushing on the cement. If this is your last patch, make sure you thread the cap on tight so the cement won't dry out before the next time you use it weeks or months in the future. Don't use cement that is no longer a runny liquid. Let the cemented tube dry for a few minutes at least. I've left tubes to dry for a half-hour without any problem. Do not touch or allow dust or dirt to touch the cemented tube or the exposed surface of the patch. After peeling the aluminum backing and applying the exposed surface of the patch to the tube centered over the hole(s), I pinch the tube and patch between my thumb and forefinger several times to ensure complete contact. As others have stated, the plastic can be left in place. However, I prefer to remove it carefully by pinching it so that it splits down the middle and I peel it from the center outward so as not to pull the feathered edges of the patch away from the tube.
Because I patch my tubes at home in batches of several at a time, every patch is sound and I always have a good supply of spare tubes to replace any punctured ones after a ride. I patch obvious holes, then after waiting ten minutes or more, I inflate the tube to a bit more than the size it would take up inside its tire and test it for smaller leaks in a tub of water. When I am sure I've patched all holes, I dry the tube with a rag, deflate it, and fold it similarly to the way it came new with a small rubber band around it and keep it in my good-tube stash.
Some folks recommend sprinkling plain talcum powder on the tube before deflating and folding it. This is probably a good idea, but I don't bother with this step most of the time, so it isn't essential.
It feels good not throwing any tubes away until they really are unrepairable!
0 of 3 found the following review helpful:
 You still need glue to get these to hold Aug 17, 2011
By CGScammell
These German-made F1 Rema patches are world-renowned for their quality. However, with this product you get small and rather thick patches that require some sanding down of the tube and special cement glue which must be ordered separately. The durability of the patch is dependent on the person's skill at application.
There are no directions for the novice; instructions are presented in simple diagrams along the side of the box. A box of 100 of these patches should last a cyclist a while. Keep in a cool, dry storage area.
0 of 5 found the following review helpful:
 forgot how bad these patches suck... Oct 10, 2011
By Michael J. Johnson
first, the patches are incompatible with *all* other vulcanizing fluids. don't even bother trying to use it with something else the bonding agents are clearly different.
second, don't bother taking off the clear plastic cover after you manage to glue these on. you'll find out quickly that attempting to take them off (even after allowing the patch to dry) will pull off the edges of the patch from the tube.
third, you run about 50/50 chance that the patch will actually adhere to the tube and truly prevent air leakage. luckily you can "patch" the patch so maybe the second one will do the job, or maybe not.
forth, these take forever to vulcanize. seriously, even after 20 minutes the fluid isn't cured enough to apply the patch (yes i realize "more fluid isn't better" so i don't use that much). don't count on finishing your ride if you manage to pop your tire and these are your only option to getting back on the road.
bottom line? buy something else and save yourself a great deal of hassle. even the "scabs" offered at walmart are a better product than this German engineering marvel of false expectations.
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